Ritu Kumar is one of those rare finds among fashion designers. She has studied and revived some forgotten ancient fabric art. Her book,
Costumes and Textiles of Royal India, talks about techniques such as
Bandhini,
Chikan,
Zardozi,
Kashida, etc., and the way they evolved with history.
India has a rich tradition in fabric design because the Indian Fashion history consists mostly of drapes: for example saris, turbans, dhotis, etc. Explains why there are several printing, dying, embroidery and weaving techniques but not as many construction methods or constructed styles. Ironically though, economic shifts have made the country one of the big manufacturers of stitched clothes, presently contributing to 14% of industrial production and 27% of total exports.
Cirque du Soleil - Costumes and Prêt
Some people know their colors and are not afraid to use it. Take the costume designers at Cirque du Soleil.
Dominique Lemieux: This Montreal based costume designer has been with the circus from 1989-1998. Her work includes We Reinvent the Circus (1989), Nouvelle Expérience (1990), Saltimbanco (1992), Mystère (1993), Alegría (1994), Quidam (1996), "O" and La Nouba (1998).
François Barbeau: One of the most famous theatre artists in Canada. Winner of the 2001 Emmy - "Outstanding Costumes for a Variety or Music Program" for his work in Dralion. He has taught and directed the Set and Costume Design Program at the National Theatre School of Canada for several years.
Eiko Ishioka: Her debut at the circus started with Varekai. This costume designer from Tokyo has won an academy award for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, a Cannes Film Festival Award, a Tony nomination and a Grammy Award. Her work in “The cell” was incredibulous!
Thierry Mugler: He is known for his signature structured look and an emphasis on shapes and curves. Examples of his work include costumes for George Michael’s “Too funky” and Spielberg’s "A. I." “Zumanity” is his debut work at the circus.
While the on stage costumes are incredible, I find the silhouettes of their Prêt line mostly bland. This circus has brand equity and the creativity to sustain it. Given a more on-stage element and drama blended into their merchandise and I’d be sold. Speaking of Cirque du Soleil merchandise and markets, I could not help but think of Harajuku…
